Balkans

Europe A-Z: Albania

Once the only officially atheist state in the world, internationally isolated and with a paranoid dictator, Albania has come a long way since shaking off its communist shackles in 1992, and is now open to the world and cheerfully welcoming visitors.

It’s one of Europe’s least discovered spots with much to offer the adventurous traveller, and while stories of horrendous roads and hard-to-find accommodation may still be true to some extent, things are rapidly improving in this Balkan nation of some 3.6 million people.

Albania’s dynamic capital Tirana, with its public art and kaleidoscopic apartment blocks, is complemented by wonderfully preserved Ottoman-era provincial towns, expansive lakes and wildlife-packed forests, plus the Ionian coastline, a stretch of sometimes sublime beaches a world away from the mainstream resorts of the Med.

Getting there

• By air – direct UK flights from Heathrow to Tirana with British Airways start at around £168.40 return (correct at time of posting)
• By land – it’s not as easy to include Albania on a tour of the Balkans as some of its neighbours although it’s entirely possible with a bit of forward planning. Long distance buses run from several major cities like Athens and Sofia. If you’ve got your own wheels, the only road borders are with Montenegro, Ohrid in Macedonia, and the newly-proclaimed republic of Kosovo, although travel through this region is not currently advised (see below)
• By sea – daily ferries run from the Italian cities of Ancona, Bari and Brindisi to the Albanian port of Durres and from Brindisi to Vlora. Lines like Adria and Azzura run the Durres services, while Skenderberg sails to Vlora. Ferries also sail from Greece and Croatia
• Visas – UK and Irish residents don’t need a visa to enter Albania although there is an entry and exit tax of €10 both ways. Check the Expedia visa guide for other nationalities and further details.

Money

The Albanian Lek is stable with a low inflation rate. £1 was worth around 160 Lek and €1 was about 125 Lek when this was written. Check a currency conversion tool like XE for up-to-date information.

Albania is still a relative bargain. You can get a cheap meal for about a quid, with budget accommodation starting at around £10 for a room per night.

Where to go

Aside from the vibrant if chaotic capital Tirana, top sights include Lake Shkoder, the largest in the Balkans, with the city of Shkoder itself one of the oldest in Albania, and the Ottoman museum city of Berat. Butrint is an ancient Greek city near the border with Greece itself and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while the port of Durres makes for a good base to explore the resorts along the Ionian coast.

The country’s official tourism site has plenty of useful destination ideas, while Lonely Planet’s Western Balkans guide contains a well-researched section on Albania.

When to go

The coastline has a Mediterranean climate although the summer is shorter than in countries further south in the Mediterranean, while the interior see snow and harsh winters, with transport difficulties common. Fewer tourists than in neighbouring countries mean you do not get the same problems of overcrowding in July and August.

Good for: undiscovered beaches, history, adventure, avoiding the obvious
Bad for: accommodation choices, easy transport links, well-maintained roads, safety in north east border area
Verdict: unlikely to become a mainstream holiday destination for quite some time due to its infrastructure problems and safety concerns, Albania remains a fascinating country to visit for the more adventurous.

Warning: the Albanian border with Kosovo contains landmines and the Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against travel there.  Check the FCO website for current travel advice to Albania.